Support the camera securely

Do not support the camera from the small CCD unit - you risk breaking the CCD unit from the camera body. Use the four 4mm screws on the back of the camera body.

Plug the three cables into the CCD unit

  • The 16-pin exposure controller cable. Don't swap 120N and 120N+ controllers.
  • The bayonet video cable, which can be 20m or more long.
  • The 12V 250mA power cable. Use the supplied EU or US regulated transformer.
  • Do not allow these cables to pull on the CCD unit; you risk breaking it off.

If you have the Peltier Cooling option...

If you have the Peltier Cooling option make sure you use the included higher power supply (12v at 750ma), otherwise you may see noise bars across the video. When it is plugged in, the cooling diode will blink rapidly while cooling, and the fan will start after a few seconds. When the temperature of the CCD reaches 10C, the cooling diode will glow steadily. The CCD temperature will be stabilized at 10C, about 30C lower than the normal operating temperature of an uncooled camera. Most of the isolated "hot pixels" will disappear, and if necessary any remaining noise can be removed by applying the "Salt & Pepper" filter, or by subtracting a stable background image. When you have finished, press the diode to switch cooling off; the diode will blink slowly and then switch off after ~10 minutes when the CCD has warmed up. You can switch off the power while the CCD is still cold, but you risk eventually shortening its life due to thermal stress.

Adjust the exposure control settings

  • Press the red button to switch off the red "freeze" (FRZ) light if it is on.
  • Turn the exposure control to slow-5. The green light should blink at ~1 hz.
  • Turn the gain and gamma to "HI" if necessary to maximise efficiency.
  • Adjust the shutter speed, gain and gamma as appropriate. See the back of the control unit for shutter speeds. The iris control is not used.
  • "HI" gamma (contrast) may be needed for faint images, but if intensity permits, switch gamma to "LO" to obtain a better dynamic range.
  • For unlimited exposures, set the shutter position to "START" (top), expose for the required time, then press the red button to "STOP" and obtain the read out.
  • If you have the wireless remote control option, you have a much larger choice of preset exposures - from 0.0005 seconds to 90 minutes! You can also set the exposure, and it will remain set while the camera is powered on, even if the controller is switched off. A detailed manual can be downloaded. If you want to programme the wireless controller using its RS232 connection to a computer, you can learn how using our collection of controller scripts.
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Using unlimited timed exposures

Short exposures are normally sufficient, but to expose for more than 10 seconds:

  • The shutter position should be set to "START" (top)
  • Press the red button to start exposing; both red and green lights go off.
  • Press the red button again to stop exposing; both red and green lights go on.
  • While the red FRZ light is on, the image is stored (frozen) in the camera.
  • The stored image is only erased when the red light is off (or the power cut).
  • Remember, very long exposures result in electronic noise, even with cooling.
  • Use the "Salt & Pepper" filter in RoboRealm, or the "Despeckle" filter in ImageJ.
  • ImageJ has a very effective "Background Process" to eliminate CCD amplifier glow.
  • Try different USB ports! Some are noisy, even on expensive computers.

Use a video monitor/TV or USB-2 frame grabber

A small TFT monitor is an inexpensive solution for monitoring the image of the neutron beam, and if required can be used in parallel with a computer.

To record and analyse the image, a USB-2 video frame grabber is needed, such as the EzCAP capture device included from version-3 of the camera or available as an optional extra for version-2. Do NOT plug it in before installing the EzCAP108 driver from the Manufacturer's web site after reading the software help page.

If it doesn't work...

If you have connected everything as described, you should see a few isolated bright pixels in the image, with high gain and several seconds exposure, even without a neutron beam. This is normal for such a highly sensitive CCD (you can apply a salt & pepper filter to remove them). If however, nothing seems to work, the most likely reason is that you have a bad electrical connection! Check all the cables; in one case a user even had a thin plastic film stuck in one of the video cable connections. Do not hesitate to email Alan.Hewat@NeutronOptics.com if you have problems or comments, however trivial.

Physical rotation of the image

You can transform the image in RoboRealm or ImageJ, but as well the CCD unit can be physically rotated to invert the image or turn it through 90/270 degrees. After removing the CCD hood, the 3 small screws between the CCD unit and the camera body can be loosened using the supplied key, allowing the CCD unit to be rotated or removed completely. Take care that the exposed CCD chip is not touched, or exposed to dust or strong light. If light enters the exposed lens, you may see the remnant glow from the scintillator for several minutes after replacing the CCD unit. Don't disassemble the camera unless you really must; focusing can be degraded by imperfect re-assembly.
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Lifespan & replacement of the CCD/scintillator

After 2 years on an ILL instrument, the CCD developed additional white pixels. Like most electronic components, the camera module should be shielded, in particular from neutron and especially gamma-ray background. The CCD unit can be replaced without opening the camera by using the supplied key to loosen the 3 small screws attaching it to the camera body.

The neutron scintillator should last indefinitely unless exposed to strong beams for long periods. In a thermal neutron beam, the light output will fall by 30% after an integrated flux of 1014.n.cm-2 i.e. more than 100 days in a continuous flux of 107.n.cm-2.sec-1. (Normally the camera will not be continuously exposed to such a strong beam).

Eventually, the camera body may be opened and the scintillator replaced (after the 12 month warranty period). Remove the 4/6 aluminium screws holding the face-plate to the camera body, and insert a very sharp blade under the plate, cutting around the complete circumference several times. (The smaller cameras are sealed with a tough rubberising compound; the large V5 cameras are not, but instead use tight-fitting push-on cover plates). Carefully pry open the top corners of the face-plate with a small flat screw-driver.

Take care not to damage the exposed scintillator or front-surfaced mirror. Cut the glue spots holding the top corners of the scintillator plate, and slide it from under its B4C protection to replace it. When the camera is assembled, the scintillator is clamped by the B4C and mirror. Be sure to replace the mirror and the seal before re-assembling the camera. If you touch the lens you may need to re-focus it.
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If you break it...

The f1.0 low-light lens is screwed to the CCD unit through the camera body. If the camera is dropped, you risk breaking the mirror and/or the CCD unit from the body. These can both be repaired by opening the camera and replacing the mirror and/or the lens, at a nominal cost plus parts and transport to/from NeutronOptics Grenoble. Be careful that the broken mirror and/or lens inside the camera does not scratch the scintillator, and that the CCD chip is protected. Cover the CCD unit aperture, and turning the camera on its back, stuff the now open hole that held the CCD unit with soft tissue to prevent broken pieces moving and scratching the scintillator during transport. You can remove the CCD unit by loosening the 3 small screws at its base, but be sure to return the ring that these screws clamp if it has been broken from the camera body.

If you need to return the camera for repair

Please confirm the return conditions with Alan.Hewat@NeutronOptics.com first.
If possible use the international postal service with a nominal declared value of $10 and marking it "returned for repair". With a Courrier service, NeutronOptics on receipt from outside Europe must pay ~22% local taxes and customs charges on the total declared value including transport!

Feedback suggestions and complaints

It is difficult to foresee all of the applications and eventual problems that users may have. It is therefore important to send suggestions and/or complaints to Alan.Hewat@NeutronOptics.com I would be especially interested if you have found a new application for the camera, and if you can provide details or photos that might be used to help others. But first read the Examples and FAQ pages.
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